With this sort of scenery around, who
couldn't write a book!
PHOTO OPPOSITE:
Grilled to perfection at Skala Skamias.
BELOW:
In the olive grove.
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We were away from Mytilini early the next morning and our
first stop was the monastery of Ayios Raphael, about three
kilometers inland from Thermi.
It was a pleasant spot at the end
of a scenic winding road. What I remember of the place, besides the well kept grounds and the shady trees, is that
the Abbess is the author of a number of books on wide ranging and enquiring
subjects.
I bought a wooden bread stamp from the old man on the kiosk at
the entrance to the sanctuary - when I get to use it, I'll
post a photo of the result on the site.
The next major town north is Mantamados. Built inland in a
small hollow to hide it from pirates, this is the home of the
Church of the Taxiarch which houses a famed icon of Archangel
Michael, the patron saint of the island.
Further North, we called into Skala Skamias, an enchanting
small-boat harbour, protected by an equally enchanting
Molyvos - stone houses crowding cobblestoned streets that are draped in ancient wisteria vines |
white-washed chapel. We couldn't resist having a fish meal on
the quay - delicious.
Our goal was Molyvos - and don't be confused
with the ancient sign posting as the town was called Methymna; or
is still called that, I could never really work it out.
Molyvos is one of the most enchanting villages that you will
find on a Greek island. It clusters up the hill towards the
(magnificent) Genoese castle, the stone houses crowding the
cobblestoned streets that are draped in ancient wisteria vines.
The fishing boats rock gently behind the sea wall of the harbour
on the point, and in between there is the wonderful hospitality
of the restaurant called Once Upon a Time
in Molyvos.
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Other places to visit in Greece:
Ioannina
Chios
Meteora
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Kostas and Penny are chefs from Athens.
They have only been in Molyvos for a few years, so perhaps they
are not yet called "locals". But even the locals cannot
resist the charm and open friendliness with which they prepare
and serve their wonderful fare.
I owe all my backgammon skills to Kostas and Penny. They are
great people, so if you get to Molyvos, wander down to the port
and relax with a glass of white wine out of the wooden barrel and
have whatever Penny recommends - it will be perfect.
We stayed at Molyvos for the next eight days, enjoying the
village and taking day trips across the North of the island. We
made sure that we were back at base by around 4pm, so we could
sit on our balcony in the late afternoon sun, enjoy a red, gaze
up at the castle, and talk about life. Then around 7.30pm, yes I
know it's early by Greek standards, we would stroll down to
the dock to enjoy whatever Penny said was good that
day.
What a great time-out that was.
Time out in Molyvos . . .
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