The hilltop villages are a good example of their wish for
protection against invaders; the ksours (the plural of Ksar, the
name given to the villages) of the plains show the initial
development of semi-permanent communal living; and the
underground villages, which were established to provide
protection from the heat of this dry, arid land.
The photo of a plain ksar above will give you an idea of their
format. Essentially storage areas for grain, animal fodder, and
other foodstuffs, these 'buildings' faced into a central
courtyard - their external walls presenting a barrier that could
be defended from within.
Ksar Oulad Soltane, near Tataouine, is an excellent example of
this type of semi-permanent meeting place. The tribes could store
their needs at places suc as this and continue their nomadic life
as the seasons dictated.
Also nearby are the villages of Chenini and Douirat, almost
deserted now as the necessity for protective hilltop living has
given way to the easier and more convenient life (without a
climb) on the plains.
Some of the houses in these villages are hewn into the rock
itself providing additional shelter against the elements.
A 'courtyard' of storage houses usually protected the
entrances to these 'caves'.
These villages look out over plains and grazing areas that
have changed little over the centuries, and some of the people
still work the land as their forefathers did.
Note: Jenny and I departed from our usual
practice of using local transport to get around this area. You
really need to hire a car to see these villages. There are plenty
of hire car companies in Houmt Souq on the island of Djerba. Road
signs are quite reasonable and we didn't have any trouble
getting around with the aid of a simple map. It is a good
day's drive to get to the places mentioned, so start early so
you have time to enjoy this interesting area. There are organized
tours from Houmt Souq if you are not confident doing it
yourself.
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